Pix in Zhuhai and Haibin Park!

Our friend Perry in front of the water park in Haibin Park. A Chinese sunset at the Pearl River Delta.

Perry and Marie with a 'Mother and Daughter" in Haibin Park.

Jon and Marie in front of impressive trees in Haibin Park.

Jon and Marie after having Yum Cha/Dim Sum in Zhuhai.

Celebration dinner with class after TESOL course ended!

Part of the menu at the restaurant the class ate at - restaurant was on a huge floating boat!

Marie in front of her dream "Hello Kitty" car!

Another serene shot of Haibin Park....

Jon and Marie in front of Zhuhai Fisher Girl in background; she is holding the 'Pearl of the Sea'.

A very healthy, round-faced Chinese baby boy - look under the penguin balloon for his head!

Jon and Marie on a 'Tiger" in Haibin Park with a Chinese woman that wanted to be photographed with 'exotic' Americans!

Marie with wedding couple in background being photographed in Haibin Park.

Goodbye Zhuhai, Hello Hangzhou!

Wow! We can't believe that it has been almost a month since our last update, and that is because this is the first time we have had a bit of a chance to stop to reminisce!

Very briefly, after our TESOL courses were completed, we were in what is called a "Golden Week" in China, where basically everything stops. The Chinese National Day, October 1st (Anniversary of the Founding of Modern China) coincides with the Mid-Autumn Festival where everyone leaves for a week to travel to visit family and celebrate by eating moon cakes (pastries filled with various things). We could not contact many employers, or anyone for that matter for the whole first week of October as most schools were closed. We took some time to relax, but mostly to try to track down employers.

After the end of the Golden Week, we received multiple responses and tried to decide where to relocate to. We had thought about a Language Center in Shenyang, but it was quite remote and cold in Northeast China. We decided not to go, for that and some other reasons as well; a major miscommunication led us to Zhuhai airport where we were told that we had only a flight pre-booked to Shanghai and no further! Not wanting to be stranded in a huge city of 20 million people without further arrangements, we opted not to fly. It turns out that poor communication (not uncommon) was responsible for the lack of information that would have had us transferring to another airline and then on to Shenyang. But, with no way of knowing this, and no one available to address this huge concern, we had no choice but to not go. It may have been a blessing in disguise as we had several more days to compare places. We opted by the end of the next week to fly to a language school in Hangzhou, about 75 miles SW of Shanghai. It is here that we have been for almost 2 weeks!

Before we left, we had some very light travel around Zhuhai. We went to see the Fisher Girl and Haibin Park again, but this time walked up a very steep hill/mountain where we could see almost all of Zhuhai, and way out to the Sea towards Hong Kong. It was beautiful, and we'll post pictures soon. We also saw many other interesting things, like a wedding in the park, and Hello Kitty themed everything (much to Marie's delight)....

So, again, we have been in Hangzhou, where we flew from Zhuhai directly to almost two weeks ago. As soon as we arrived, we were taken to our apartment. The apartment and the school are in Xiaoshan, an area that used to be a different city from Hangzhou, but was incorporated in to it about 6 years ago, and is growing rapidly. Hangzhou is at the mouth of Hangzhou Bay, a water body that juts pretty far inland South of Shanghai. The major downtown is about 30 minutes by taxi away from here. It is based around a huge lake called, aptly enough, West Lake. It was dredged and beautified over 400 years ago, and is a major tourist attraction. There are a couple Starbucks in that area (also much to Marie's delight) as well as a Dairy Queen, a Papa John's and a Subway! We have not had much time to explore the West Lake area, but will do so soon.

As far as our apartment, it is pretty spacious (3 bedrooms) but oddly furnished. It is on the fifth floor (6 up from the ground) with no elevator. The six flights will definitely be enough motivation for us never to buy too much or be able to get too fat! We are about 10 minutes walk from the school. In order to get there, we have to fight all sorts of foot traffic from ridiculous drivers that pay no attention to crosswalks, to scooter motorists and bike taxis that hog the sidewalks. There are around 6.5 million people in this area (Zhuhai had only 2 million!) so it is obviously much more crowded.

At the school, we immediately started teaching the next morning after arrival. There are classes with kids as young as 3-4, Kindergarten classes, Elementary and Middle School students, as well as adults! We have gotten trial by fire which has made settling in and getting all the necessary ducks in a row quite challenging. In fact, we are still working on many things which is why we have not had a chance to write as we've been trying to get settled. Right now, we are teaching 5 days a week, with the weekends the busiest days. Monday and Tuesday, we both have off for now. We will have the usual Chinese "Golden Weeks" off - the Mid-Autumn Festival just past (first week of October), Chinese New Year (January or Feb. - depending on the Lunar calendar) and the Spring Festival (first week of May). We also will have off two days for Xmas, and one for New Year. There are several peak times where we will bump up to six day weeks, but no more than the max number of teaching hours per week (unless OT is desired). So, it will be busy, but we will try to adjust. As well, we will again have more pix soon, and hope to get a better camera in the not too distant future for both pix and vids of the area and our travels.

In the meantime, our apartment is next to a very nice park with several pagoda type buildings. It backs up to a canal and river walk. There are a ton of overpriced Western stores with faux-designer items. The square where all the stores are is affectionately referred to in Chinese as "Stupid Rich Tourist Shopping Plaza". We will not be buying many things there. Though, the weather is getting in to the 50's here now (much colder than the South in Zhuhai) so warmer clothes will be necessary. When we flew here, even though we had relieved ourselves of enough things to be able to drop an entire suitcase, we still had to pay quite a bit for overage for our luggage. China Southern Airlines' domestic carriage allowance is quite small. In fact, we are lucky that we even caught our flight. It left 15 minutes early; apparently, this is not uncommon.

We are trying to find good places to eat, and our favorite so far is a small place with a few tables owned by a Chinese Muslim family. It appears to be much cleaner than most places, with no pork served. They have all the raw goods to choose from - meats, veggies, tofu, spices and noodles. One simply puts what they want in a basket, and they cook it in a huge pot up front. A huge pot of soup/dinner costs the equivalent of about USD $1.50. Next door, there is a place called Jack Hut that serves very good smoothies, shakes and Chinese Bubble Tea, as the restaurant is BYOB. Many places in China are, as there are no rules against drinking anywhere, or smoking anywhere! Again, we are trying to figure out the neighborhood.

One very good thing is that, even though this is a much larger city, there are places of refuge outside of the West Lake area. There are little areas for public exercise in the parks that we try to use that have Chinese-style Nordic Track sort of machines. Also, there are as usual many people in the park in the early morning doing Tai Chi. To do this at some point would be nice, as well as taking Chinese lessons. We are still looking in to this through the school.

Again, though, we are still trying to catch up on sleep and get over colds. There is no real insulation in most buildings, so it is pretty cold even with the heat. As well, there is constant noise starting as early as before 6 AM! There are construction noises, street vendors shouting their sales pitches, people loudly running around greeting each other, music from exercising, and even fireworks going off at all hours. As could be expected since they were invented here, Chinese fireworks are ubiquitous. But, not only does everyone have and use fireworks (real huge and impressive professional style fireworks - firecrackers as they call them) but they are set off for all occasions. So, births, weddings, promotions, reunions, birthdays, anniversaries, everything! Since there are millions of people here, there are almost always fireworks, and they are very large, bright and LOUD! Sometimes, it is hard to hear during class because of this. It would seem that their constant use would diminish their meaning and importance, but this does not seem to occur to anyone but us. Though, just like Eastern toilets, and the general lack of much hygiene/manners it is something to get used to....

What we find here is that we are stared at much more than in Zhuhai. Even though this area is much bigger, we are in a section of the city where there are not many non-Asians. So, we definitely stick out. Not only that, but we are trying to get used to things that shock us. There are, all over, what were politely once referred to as Houses of Ill Repute. Not only are these not hidden, but apparently tolerated and possibly encouraged. We can not say for sure, but things are indeed very different on many levels. Even the fact that there are no traffic lights at some huge intersections, with constant beeping from everyone and no real rules of traffic being followed seems not so strange in comparison.

We now have intermittent access to email/Net use. But, this will change in the near future. In the meantime, we will update when we can and add more pix. For now, we'll add a couple that we took before leaving Zhuhai, and again will add the mountain views soon.

Until we update again, please take care and be in touch!

-Jon and Marie

Xiangzhou Experimental School

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cJQfcgM4r1s

A guy named Vance in our class made this video (link above) of a charter school that we visited a few times during our teaching practices. This was the first time we visited. The kids mobbed us, and wanted autographs the second time we showed up. It was a bit staged by the school we think, but the kids were mostly genuine in their fascination with us. They would run around and scream "hello" like this, and then run away again. But, as soon as the teachers blew whistles, they would all line up in unison and do Tai Chi Boxing to a version of Queen's "We Will Rock You" sung by a young English kid. Then, they would sing Christmas songs, and the P.A. would play the music to "We Wish you a Merry Christmas" between classes. Very surreal!

Out and about in Zhuhai Pix...

Pix of Schools Visited in Zhuhai

Hongda Garden Apartment in Zhuhai Pix, 16th Floor!

Back and front pix of our TESOL Certs!

HALLELUJAH!

Free at last, we are free at last! ; )

We finished our TESOL certification courses on Friday 9/28, and the end couldn't have come soon enough. The course, originally designed as a two month course, crammed everything in to one month and back-loaded the most work in to the last week. On top of this, we were still trying to settle what jobs we take. We are not complaining entirely, as we are very happy to have finished and gotten our certifications and should know what jobs that we will start (and when) this week!

Unfortunately, so much has happened that it will not be possible to tell everything. This is greatly because we can not view our own blog (it's on one of the sites blocked here) and can't exactly remember what we last talked about! But, we'll tell what we can...

Again, the last couple of weeks of the course were quite intensive. We went to several schools, and did get a chance to shoot some photos of the urchins that were mobbing us and demanding autographs with out pens and paper! When we get a chance (we swear it will be soon now), we'll put some of these pictures on this blog. We also spent our 2nd anniversary on 9/25 without the chance to actually celebrate as a couple. Our classmates were extremely kind and generous, though and treated us to an improptue dinner nearby. It really was unfortunate that many things had to be put on hold in September for this, but it was a necessity for our future job prospects.

Marie was wise enough to get a couple of what equates to $3/hour USD deep tissue massages at the nearby salon. The blind women are apparently very good as their tactile senses are much better. Marie was experiencing sever migrane headaches, and we were nervous that it would be hard for her to finish the course as the pain lasted the entire last week of the program. But, luckily when she went to get her massage, she was told that this pain was being caused by her sleep position. After the massage, and a better pillow being used, she was much better off.

Jon went on the last day of the course for a bushwhacking of his "Fro" that was out of control. Luckily, our friend Jen from the course speaks Chinese, and was able to direct how this cut would occur. Marie and Jon each had an almost hour-long scalp and basic body massage, shampooing, Marie's hairdrying, and Jon's haircut at this nice salon for the equivalent of around $6.50. As usual, tipping is not allowed. It is so strange to see the custom of tipping be absent. While at the salon, there was a ridiculously inappropriate song from the 80's, redone by a Chinese group, by 2 Live Crew playing in the background. As is the case with all of the nonsensical English signs and t-shirts that everyone wears, people do not understand what they are hearing. In fact, ironically, for all those familiar with the "Numa-Numa" song that is danced to by a fat kid on the popular Web video, we saw a huge group of Chinese kids performing a dance for a large crowd to this song done in Chinese. Between this, and the huge impromptu dancers and Tai-Chi participants in the cultural plaza in front of this school, we are always surrealistically entertained!

At the end of the course, there was a group dinner at a gigantic floating restaurant at the end of a pier on the sea next to the city. We had all sorts of exotic (Jon is still getting a little more used to eating chicken feet, though still not his favorite) food, and drink while in the middle of the restaurant expensive art was being auctioned off, by a couple of Asian "Vanna Whites" and a "Pat Sajack" to anyone eating there who wanted it. The paintings started from around $75 USD to $3000. Marie was intrigued by a gigantic couple of cod fish at the front in a tank. their mouths, when open, exposed their ribs. They looked ancient. Jon was concerned that they would be dinner, but apparently (hopefully) they are only for show.

After the course ended, Jon and Marie celebrated with friends, and Jon of course stayed out too late while Marie wisely rested. A local said that Haizhu beer (local brew -Zhuhai reversed) was the best, but it is quite similar to Tsingtao in many ways. All Chinese beers seem to be lighter ales, rather than dark lagers.

It was sad to say goodbye to the new friends that we have made on this course. We really do hope to be able to see many of them in the future, though we will all be scattered across the China. We really hope to see Jen again; not only is she one of the greatest people we have met, but it'd be nice to visit her as she's moving back to Fiji! : P

On Saturday night, we took a cruise with a couple hundred Chinese students from GLV (our school where TEFL is housed) on the water between Macao and Zhuhai to watch an International Fireworks competition. It was the last day of a several day contest, and the US and Japan were competing that day. We have no idea who won, but the fireworks were amazing! There was cabin entertainment by a Chinese girl singing English pop songs, another girl doing amazing hula hoop tricks, and a man showing the kids how to do card tricks. Macao, with its huge casinos, lights, and impressive skyline was something to behold. Unfortunately, most of the Chinese, or at least most that don't hold high positions with the government, have a very hard time obtaining Visas to visit Macao. This is a shame, but also may not be the worst thing for them as many think that they can go to casinos and become rich. Their naivite would cost them a fortune. The government seems to recognize this, but those pouring money in to Macao's gambling infrastructure are working hard to change this.

Macao is a former Portuguese colony. It was handed back to China by Portugal in 1999, like Hong Kong was by the British in 1997. It is a Special Administrative Region (SAR) like Hong Kong, and therefore, though it belongs to China, has a border and customs that must be crossed when going between Macao and the mainland. It is a chain of 3 islands, where the Northermost one is entered from the Zhuhai-Macao border, and there are casinos and beaches on parts of the Southern sides. It is small compared to Hong Kong, but still has a unique flare because of the Portuguese influence.

We went early Sunday morning to Macao, knowing that we would possibly not have another chance to do so before leaving for our jobs very soon. So, without planning, and not much of a guide (and no translator) we were taken to the border (20 minutes away by bus) by a Chinese kid from a Vocational school nearby. He has become a friend of our friend Perry, who is Cantonese himself, and he actually had his brother take us. We told him that this was not necessary, but the Chinese here that we have met will not let us pay for meals when with them, nor refuse favors. This is actually insulting if refused too much. He actually wants us to meet his parents because he has told them of us all. We hope to be able to do this before we leave.

When we got to the border before 9 AM, we had a short form to fill out to leave the mainland, and another brief form before arriving in Macao. It was very easy, though the border can easily be crossed by between .5 to almost 1 million people daily, so it is of course crowded. Once there, we exchanged our Chinese Yuan currency for Macao Patacas. The currencies are almost equivalent in value. We wandered the immediate area looking fro breakfast, and only saw dim sum places that sold fish and dumpling breakfasts. We were not, at the time, in the mood for that, so were told that we should go to McDonald's for breakfast. Not having gone there in a very long time, we decided to get breakfast there. It was the same as what we would get in the States (McMuffin, has browns, etc) and as always, more expensive than most local places. They do sell a "Shogun Burger" that is a pork bbq sandwich, and KFC does too with different kinds of desserts like Tarot Pie, but otherwise the menu is pretty similar to the West. There was a Birthday Party going on upstairs, and kids were playing all around in the little tyke jungle gym area. They were quite loud and animated, and very cute. It was unique to see a Western style bathroom, but we soon realized that this is standard in Macao.

We took a bus to the Sands Casino, where Marie won a free keychain with her complimentary spin of the roulette wheel. That was the extent of the "gambling" that we would do during our day. We then took a bus from Sands to the Venetian, the $3 billion casino being built by the owne of the Bellagion in Vegas. The Venetian is still being built, and many stores and restaurants have not yet opened. But, even still it is enormous, with a gigantic indoor Venetian replica canal that when filled will feature gondola rides for about $20 a person around the entire casino. It has all of the designer stores, multinational restaurants, and to Marie's delight expensive jewelry and Starbucks. The size of the casino is overwhelming. Even the facade is amazing, as it greatly resembles a Venetian temple.

When we left, we took a bus back to the border, and then another to an area called Sao Maolom or the Seaside. On the way, there was some sort of huge contingent of thousands of people blocking traffic on scooters. Traffic stopped for over a half hour, so the sardine packed bus we were on cleared out. We stayed on until we got to our destination.

The place was authentic Macao, as it looked just like Lison, with a tiled square, churches, ruins, hills, many steps and a battery fort at the top of the hill with cannon. We ate at a Portuguese cafe, and quite enjoyed having real bread. This was the best part of the day, and showed what real Macao is like. There were Portuguese people, and mixed people who spoke Portuguese.

The gambling industry is trying to push Macao to become the Vegas of Asia. It has not so far cleaned up the rest of the city, and we hope that it does not completely kill off the old Portuguese parts and feel to the place. When we left, we were glad to be across the border before it closed at midnight!

Today is National Day, October 1st. People are eating moon cakes and visiting family. It is 58 years since Mao and the Communists prevailed and sent the Nationalists packing to Taiwan. We will see what is still open to visit. We will be updating again soon with job news and pix. Until then, take care!

-Jon and Marie